Friday, 10 March 2017

Paris Fashion Week AW17

Phew! We've finally made it to Paris, what an intense Fashion Month it's been. Here are my favourite shows from Paris Fashion Week: 

Jacquemus AW17

Simon Porte Jacquemus described this season’s girl as “(A) Parisian girl who wears couture who falls in love with a gypsy in the south of France. She tries to be like a gypsy, but she cannot – she is too couture!”. The resulting collection tells the story of an impossible love story and two separate aesthetics juxtaposed beautifully. Incredible sculptured details, from cosy shawl collars, high-waisted matador pants, huge raglan shoulders and corseted waists created art on the runway, both super conceptual but equally commercial. It takes a very special designer to successfully walk the line between fantasy and fashion, and for this reason Jacquemus is currently one of my favourite designers.

Johanna Ortiz AW17

When I think of Johanna Ortiz, I think of three things: sensual bare shouldered eveningwear, the most covetable and feminine shirting and endless ripples of ruffles. Her aesthetic is strong, sexy and sensual, so it’s no surprise that her label is such a commercial success. I was happy to see all three signatures going strong in the AW17 collection, in a soft colour palette of muted mint green and smooth lilac and mauve, pepped up with bold red poppies. Puff sleeves and bows were peppered through the collection, which I would sum up as restrained drama. 

Miu Miu AW17

Art Deco decked in lavender fake fur made for the most interesting set for Miu Miu’s AW17 show. Celebrating the madness of glamour, the collection featured fur everything, from baker-boy hats to coats and skirts alongside psychedelic 70s print tunic and flares and exaggerated shoulders. Shiny paillettes were sprinkled throughout the collection, on wisp-thin slips to sassy little dresses. The message was loud and clear – fashion and beauty are here to be celebrated. 

Saint Laurent AW17

Anthony Vaccarello did it again. He created one of the standout moments of Paris Fashion Week with a single shoe. Last season, it was the YSL-heeled shoes and this season, the stunning slouchy rhinestone-encrusted boots. I think they sum up Vaccarello’s high octane approach to designing for Saint Laurent. He has a knack for creating super luxury versions of clothing that you dream to have in your wardrobe, the black leather version of the boots are covetable enough but add the rhinestones and they become something else. 

The collection actually centred around an archive haute couture dress from the early 80s, eveningwear is clearly a focus for Vaccarello but the daywear is equally strong. Luxe details included denim jackets with mink or shearling detailing and pleated cocktail skirts and ivory mohair sweaters. The final lap stole the show, models clad in dramatic, sculptural after-dark looks, all short hemlines, exaggerated sleeves and those slouchy boots. Perfection. 

Chloe AW17

This was Clare Waight Keller’s swansong, her final collection as Creative Director at Chloe, a brand she has helped shape for the last six years. At the helm of the brand, Waight Keller has developed an intrinsic personality behind the brand – the Chloe girl. Bohemian and free-spirited, globe trotting, festival-loving and carefree, the Chloe girl became who we all wanted to be. Dressed in signature floaty frocks which were toughened up with leathers and Baja shirts, her life seemed as dreamy as her wardrobe. Her final collection was full of her greatest hits, as well as a sharper focus on tailoring, with strong shoulders and pleated trousers taking centre stage. An undeniably strong collection from a designer who will be missed. 

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