Here are my favourite shows from Paris Fashion Week:
Alexander McQueen SS17
Lee McQueen shows were notorious for making your heart skip a beat. Intoxicating and immersive, they drew you into his inspiration for the season, whether it was the Scottish Highlands or Atlantis. For me, that depth has been slightly lacking in Sarah Burton’s collections. However, this season she flew her design team to the Shetland Islands to immerse themselves into the environment and beautiful nature. The resulting collection is a stunning ode to the Shetland Isles, all delicate cobweb wool lace, sturdy lace harnesses, floral embroidery and black-and-white plaid. Sublime.
It’s no secret that one of my passions is the creativity of emerging designers. Without the expectations of an established brand nor the constraints of creating something commercial, emerging designers can afford to be mavericks. London seems to be the only city which truly nurtures fresh talent, which is why it’s encouraging to see a young brand on the roster at PFW. I’ve silently observed Jacquemus for a few seasons, interested to see how the brand develops against a backdrop of iconic contemporaries. Simon Porte Jacquemus’ spring/summer 2017 collection does not disappoint. Filled with Provencal folk references fused with 80s haute couture drama, the collection felt like a natural progression of a designer just getting into his stride. One of the most exciting and optimistic shows in Paris.
The synergy between Loewe and Jonathan Anderson is perfection, it’s like this partnership was meant to be. In a few seasons, he has transformed this once modest Spanish label into one of the most covetable luxury labels, for the discerning customer. Though the quirky elephant bags are cute, the main collection is all beautiful, sumptuous luxury. This season sees Anderson playing with texture, linens, cottons, burlap, fringing, unfinished edges, plisse and of course leather. Accessories were the major taking point, shoes, boots, loafers, sandals and every single bag you could wish for. One of my favourites of the season.
Louis Vuitton SS17
I’m almost tempted to sum up Ghesquiere’s latest collection for Louis Vuitton with two terms – cut-outs and phone cases. The former is a continuation from his sports-luxe Cruise collection, albeit more grown up and sophisticated. A flash of shoulder here, a peek of a hip there in between some beautifully tailored looks, the best of which were slightly deconstructed and dishevelled. The real talking point was the incredible Petite Malle phone cases, which are already set to the THE must have accessory for spring/summer 2017.
This season saw many Creative Director changes in Paris. The most surprising was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s appointment at Dior, parting ways with design partner Pierpaolo Piccioli and ending their extremely successful tenure as joint Creative Directors at Valentino. Over the years, Valentino has evolved into one of a handful of brands which knocks it out of the park each season. I’m glad to say spring/summer 2017 was no different. Inspired by the work of Hieronymus Bosch and London’s very own Zandra Rhodes, the resulting collection consisted of predictably dreamy diaphanous dresses with delicate bird embroidery and developed a super covetable side in luxe daywear. Beautiful.