Here are my highlights from MFW's autumn/winter 2016 season:
Dolce & Gabbana
Inspired by fairytales, Disney and Frozen, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented a collection which was saccharine sweet, with a little twist. While the pretty pink looks and flower-adorned pieces were perfect for Cinderella, the Italian design duo also dabbled in tailored looks, more in keeping with the uniforms of Cinderella’s footmen. A whimsical collection which is full of innocence and happiness, what more could you want on a cold February day in Milan?
Ermanno Scervino is fast becoming one to watch on the Milan roster. A relative newcomer in a city which almost exclusively shows collections from storied fashion houses, Scervino’s sophisticated chic is making waves. Scervino doesn’t reference obvious trends or push a certain look home, rather each season builds on and reinforces of feminine, glamorous, beautiful, covetable look.
It’s strange to think it’s only been a year since Alessandro Michele took the helm at Gucci, so accustomed to his delicate renaissance vision of the Italian powerhouse brand. Inspired by Italian art and antiques as well as French couture, his collections for Gucci are a fusion of opulent historical references and super contemporary styling which sets the zeitgeist. This season sees Michele inspired by 16th Century portraits as well as the 80s, by way of reinterpreted Gucci Gs. The more I see from Michele’s Gucci, the more I fall in love with his vision.
This season, Miuccia Prada described the Prada woman as “a vagabond”, with the sumptuous collection conjuring up images of a global nomad, belonging to no one place. Layers upon layers with a myriad of multifaceted references deftly woven into one succinct story for the season, perhaps a reflection of how Prada sees women; “The nature of women is complex and ineffable...like a Russian doll placed inside one another”. Dropped shoulders, fur sleeves, full 50s-style skirts and dresses and beautiful gilded silk cinched in by multiple belts. Utility outerwear, trekking boots, 40s-style cocktail dresses, distressed leather, velvet wedges. The collection was vast in references but concise in feel. Miuccia has done it again.
Sexy and Versace are so synonymous it almost feels like they are one and the same, though in recent seasons that sexiness has been less overt and slightly more restrained. Donatella’s sensual designs are designed by a woman for women, it’s more about embracing sexiness and bringing it into the everyday – evident with the plethora of daywear looks shown this season. Leather trims on suits and coats, oversized knits paired with shiny leather, dresses slashed to the thigh and Gianni Versace-designed prints strutted down the catwalk in kitten heel-clad models. Power dressing is back.