Martin Margiela Artisanal Also influenced by the recession but in a very different way, long-time recycling advocate Martin Margiela produced a very whimsical and quirky collection for his Artisanal line. Constructed from materials such as paper towels, shredded denim and shoelaces, it had a surprising appeal. My favourite pieces are the white shoelace dress, black plasticy puffy bolero and the shredded denim one-legged jumpsuit.
Christian Lacroix Christian Lacroix, by contrast, didn't seem bothered about economic times at all. He created a collection of gasp-worthy pieces as usual. The show, entitled 'The designs of her Nature' included notes on the mood for various pieces – caught, wavering, elated, poised. I think that this insight was necessary, the extravagant designs were typical Lacriox fashion, but for the collection as a whole there didn't seem to be a coherent concept connecting the collection (gosh, try repeating that quickly!). I think it is important to have a connecting concept, otherwise its just a bunch of clothes as opposed to a collection. Saying that, I did like what I saw – structural, ornate, patterned, paradise brights with plenty corsages and blooms, it was graphic yet romantic. Daywear was very strong, with almost Russian-esque military jackets with gold detailing, flouncy chiffon detailing and mannish trouser shapes. For eveningwear, Lacroix stuck to what he does best: stunning dresses. A white swan-like dress with a flower embroidered jacket was one of my favourites, along with a structured heavily embroidered bodice partnered with a smudged watercolour pouffy skirt. A special mention to the outstanding legwear, the tights were absolutely fantastic. Givenchy Having read a great article on Riccardo Tisci (whom I now have a great respect for) in Vogue's February issue, I was greatly anticipating his couture collection for Givenchy. WWD compared his collection those of Chanel and Dior and were fairly critical, stating '[He is] a good designer who has yet to fully deliver on his early promise' and 'it's a different kind of couture than that which sets the standard'. Yes, his collection was not as strong as those created by Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano, but they are masters of couture and it's terribly unfair to compare anyone to them, in my opinion. I think it was a soft and feminine collection - Seductive nude palette, contrasting sheer and fabric panels, sleek tailoring round shoulders, beautiful draping. Day and eveningwear were equally stunning; with suits toned down with willowy, elegant curves and beautifully languid draped evening gowns with sheer details. That said, he did not lose the sexy edge he's known for, and even managed to incorporate bondage elements to his pretty dresses. * Source WWD