Sophia Webster's presentations are becoming a very necessary mid-LFW pick me up. Last season's 90s hiphop soundtrack was the perfect morning wake up call and perfectly complimented a very pink and very girly collection. This season, girly is gone and replaced with fierce attitude. Set in an all black everything maze in a graffiti-strewn tunnel in Waterloo, the collection was modelled by neon had urban warriors to a jungle soundtrack. A strong statement and sharp contrast to the previous presentation, the collection itself was less severe and more fun and playful. Nevertheless, this was by far one of my favourite presentations of the season. Jungle is massive.
Monday, 15 September 2014
Lucas Nascimento is another designer who I remember seeing at their first London Fashion Week outing at a presentation. I'm not sure whether it's seeing the collection at leisure and close proximity or catching a designer showing their first collection but seeing a designers first or second collection makes it stay with me for a few seasons. It almost becomes a personal connection and appreciation of a designer for years to come and this is exactly how I feel about Lucas. His spring/summer 2015 collection merged his signature sophisticated tailoring and sleek knitwear with the notion of a temporary reality - resulting in a deconstructed aesthetic which was half demure and half dishevelled.
Saturday, 13 September 2014
It's been an interesting year for J.W. Anderson, after joining the LVMH fold and taking the helm at Loewe. I was keen to see the effect, if any, that these developments have had on the direction for his own eponymous label. The result is beautiful, strong and refined, possibly one of his strongest collections to date. Inspired by surrealism, workwear, psychedelic and suspended architecture, the collection featured huge floppy leather hats, wallpaper-like dresses, layering and towelling jackets. Still slightly austere and industrial, the collection also featured flashes of femininity with a sprinkling of blush and baby pink tones. Bravo.
The Royal Opera House was the perfect setting to showcase Julian Macdonald's high octane glamour. His spring/summer 2015 collection featured tightly fitted dresses adorned with floral applique, cobweb knits, mirror mosaics, feathers and thousands of shimmery crystals. Stand out looks included gowns slashed to the navel or thigh, the intricately embroidered pencil dresses and the four final gowns which were all breathtaking. Bravo on a fantastic collection.
The Sibling show is always a rambunctious riot of fun and spring/summer 2015 is no exception. Inspired by street style before it became the raison d'etre for hundreds of street style blogs, the Sibling design trio channelled 1980s New York and specifically the work of photographers Amy Arbus and Maripol. The result was a super cute collection which was almost cartoonish with huge oversized bow headpieces - no doubt one of the talking points of the second day at London Fashion Week.
Now in her third season, ex-assistant designer for Roberto Cavalli is really coming into her own. A designer who doesn't seem to rely on front row buzz, Barbara's shows are as understated as her collection; instead letting her talent speak for itself. The colour palette ranged from burnt orange and red tones to slivers of molten bronze and silver - mimicking the transition between sunset and sunrise. Key details included sunray pleats, sheer body skimming knits and Barbara's signature oversized tailoring. Just one year since her on-schedule debut and 8 months after becoming the youngest guest designer at Pitti, Barbara Casasola is definitely one to watch.
At the Amanda Wakeley show, champagne and white cupcakes set the tone for a breathtakingly simple all white collection. Expertly cut and subtly sexy, the collection featured mesh panels, thigh high slashed kilts and cheeky cut outs. The collection is so much sexier and confident than I expected from Amanda, every single look was spot on and I'm coveting everything from the kimono jackets and slouchy rolled up trousers to the more structured cut out tops.
Last season, Fyodor Golan introduced a raucously fun collection against a pink astroturf covered abandoned warehouse as a backdrop. The party continues for SS15 at The Vaults underneath Waterloo station. I was pleased to see the brand continued their partnership with Microsoft this season, with real-time videos and showcasing the Lumia 830 smartphone. The collection itself was an ode to modernity and youthful romance, veering from pretty, 3D florals to sharp origami tailoring and bold, bright shades. I enjoyed both sides of Fyodor Golan's SS15 collection but it could have done with a bit more cohesion and a stronger focus.