London Fashion Week: Florian Jayet AW12

Tribalwear in the 21st century is the only succinct way to describe Florian Jayet's autumn/winter 2012 collection. Inspired by tribes and civilisations of the past, draping, pleating and structured silhouettes form the basis of this look. Traditional Aztec and Maori inspired tattoos in bold shades of blue and yellow make for a stunning statement while metallic shades offer a glimmer of futurism to the collection. 

London Fashion Week: Mattijs AW12

Dutch designer Mattijs isn't someone I was familiar with before the show, so I went in with an open mind and no expectations. As the lights went down to signify the start of the show, the Star Wars theme started blaring and then the magic started. Heavily sci-fi inspired, the "starburst" collection features origami pleats, jutting peplums, circular cu outs and warrior-like cuffs. The cuff choker is something that I desperately need in my life. The colour palette featured shimmery golds as well as navy and cobalt blue with a touch of fern green and tangerine. Soft, floaty gowns offered a contrast to the severe, sharp silhouettes of the daywear pieces. The footwear collaboration with United Nude was also a high point, featuring Mattijs signature pleating. This was one of my favourite collections of the week and I'm really looking forward to seeing his SS13 collection. 

London Fashion Week: Elisa Palomino AW12

What a way to start day 2 of London Fashion Week. Elisa Palomino transported us back to the Roaring Twenties with opulent feather, silk and velvet flapper dresses and full length gowns slinking down the catwalk. Inspired by Florine Stettheimer's book of poems "Crystal Flowers", the collection featured ruby reds, cool blacks and dreamy, oversize oriental prints. Decadent and avant-garde, the collection featured gorgeous embroidery and floral embellishment details on long, languid silhouettes. 

London Fashion Week: Georgia Hardinge AW12

Georgia Hardinge is another designer from the Merit Award alumni who I'm just drawn to. Her autumn/winter 2012 show features her signature geometric fabric work on a backdrop of rich jewel tones, from deep burgundy to royal blue with flashes of citron. Strong sculptural silhouettes were followed by with bold printed form fitting dresses and soft, floaty chiffon gowns, a diverse mix. The prints were inspired by Turner Prize winner Rachel Whiteread's resin cast and spirograph techniques, the print looked incredible on the long sleeve, clingy dresses. The final look was a culmination of all the different elements which made up the collection and drew gasps from the crowd at Freemason Hall. 

London Fashion Week: Jena Theo AW12

Long time readers will know how I feel towards Jena Theo. I'm a fan and their show is always a highlight whether it's in Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Mercer St Studios or the new Embankment Gallery Showspace. The autumn/winter 2012 collection entitled "Heavy Metal" sees the label stripped back into a concentrated form - the denim is super skinny and sculptural, the billowing and draping are more apparent. Evidence of the duo's exploration into architectural shapes and geometrics is shown in the asymmetric cuts, oversize pocket placements, leather detailing and fringing. The detailing on the denim is superb, especially the cut out ankles. 

London Fashion Week: Phoebe English AW12

Last season, Phoebe English showed as one of the Ones To Watch labels which showed her promising future. As the Merit Award winner for 2012, the AW12 collection was Phoebe's first solo show and it did not disappoint. An exploration into textures and the interplay of surfaces, Phoebe plays with dense wool felt, soft silk and even heavy latex in an incredibly polished show, a testament to how far she can come in such a short period of time. The workmanship is astounding, particularly the lattice weaving and pleating in the last few looks. 

London Fashion Week: PPQ AW12

Six months ago, I had the pleasure of attending PPQ's SS12 show and celebrate their 10 year anniversary. I saw lots of cute signature PPQ prints but also a more grown up element coming into play. This season, the sophisticated influence was more pronounced but Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker still retained the irreverent PPQ essence. As usual, it was a full house and the crowd witnessed the show opening with a model walking down the catwalk along with a special PPQ RULE Supreme Style bike. Named "Black Out", the collection featured some stand out body suits and a pair of fluffy, furry hotpants but I found the more tailored pieces more intriguing. Tweed statement coats, draping, asymmetrc detailing, oversized embellished hoods, velvet midi length dresses had a vintage movie star feel while the ethereal ice white, black and charcoal ombre chiffon dresses were simply beautiful. The show ended with striking looks featuring animal printing on satin in a signature PPQ move. The collaboration with Bebaroque was also a highlight, jewelled tights are a must for next season. 

London Fashion Week: Zoe Jordan AW12

Inspired by Andalucia, BFC/Elle Talent Launch Pad winner Zoe Jordan showed a collection of draped tweeds, thick knits and floaty satin in a collection which mixed masculine and feminine elements. The earthy, autumnal colour palette with burnt orange, charcoal, amber and burgundy tones had a boyish charm, with high waists, capes and shorts featuring heavily. The belted silhouette felt a little dated but the cocoon shapes were gorgeous. The highlight for me was the beautiful cordobes hats which added a touch of androgyny.